An Encounter in The Desert - by J. Swami Nath

In the mid-fifties, we were a trio who were assigned work in the blazing deserts of Rajasthan. First it was me - J. Swami Nath, abbreviated as JSN. Then there was J.G. Krishnamurthy - JGK. And the third was G.J. Chandak - GJC. We were to work in the Jaisalmer district - the name also having the letter 'J' in it, and the rocks around the area were of the Jurassic Period - also with a 'J'. An astute colleague remarked that there were too many 'Js' in the whole project and it was most likely that the results of the work would also have a 'J' in it and would most likely be 'Junk'!

Geological and geophysical work in this region was undertaken as the country was seeking to achieve self-sufficiency in petroleum and to explore for oil and gas. As there were no one inch to a mile maps available, nor were there any air-photos, we had to take recourse to tape and compass traverses along almost horizontal strata (gently dipping at 2 degrees) making the foot upon foot, mile upon mile traverse rather monotonous.

In the course of one such monotonous traverse, JGK and I, very early  one morning, came across an East-West shallow gully that was about thirtyfive feet wide and about seven to ten feet deep. Both walls of the gulch were vertical.  On a monotonously plain terrain, we found this small feature to be exciting as there was a possibility that it could point to a structural geological feature. I asked JGK to remain on top of the valley and that I would venture to examine the depression. Choosing a sandy spot on the river bed that was free of fallen boulders, I leapt into the valley and landed on all fours. I scanned the southern wall and later turned a whole 180 degrees to examine the northern wall from where I had jumped and froze at the sight I saw.

I know not how long I might have stood blank and motionless - JGK surmised it might have been a couple of minutes - even as he was loudly asking from the top of the cliff what was wrong. I scarcely heard him, and getting no response from me, he too jumped in. He too was bewildered at the sight.

Beneath an overhang on the north wall was a niche - a small cavern in the Jaisalmer limestones, at the mouth of which lay a string cot - charpoy as it is locally called. On it sat a gigantic figure about six foot four inch tall, sturdy, and wearing a Rajasthani turban of a flaming colour that lent a radiance to his stately head. His facial  features were overwhelmed by his luxuriant coiled moustache and on his broad chest diagonally ran a cross-belt laden with bullets. His virile wrists were decorated with thick and heavy silver amulets and a little away from him were a pair of camels chewing the cud. To his right, on the wall of the cavern were a couple of glistening rifles placed slanting and menacingly which were within his easy reach. A fire was burning inside the cave.

Neither we nor him were prepared for such an encounter so early in the morning, and the suddenness of it rendered us speechless. Who would make the first move? Perhaps he sized up our pitiable situation: two puny creatures with their moorings lost! Soon a broad smile spread over his visage. Addressing us politely, he enquired what we were doing at that unearthly hour in that god-forsaken place. Most of us wore khakhi for field work in those days and we had an inordinate fear that he may mistake us for police assigned to track him. We neither had the guts, nor even seemed to possess the right to ask him the same question. We told him of the mission we were at and he summed up our replies by saying "Ah! Survey wallahs!" The frigid ice was broken.

He asked us to partake of his breakfast being prepared by his servant deep inside the little cavern. We were served 'Bajra rotis' with a dollop of butter the size of a ping pong ball. Though we were not hungry we did not display the reluctance that we felt as we nibbled at the repast, for we didn't dare to wound his feelings. Nor were we in a condition to enjoy the fare as we were in a fright. As a return gesture we offered to take him in our jeep to drop him anywhere he wanted but he politely declined our offer. We were indeed grateful for his hospitality and courtesy and above all, for sparing our lives when we were at his mercy. He said he had two fast camels that were in excellent health and further informed us that he had an important job to do at Miajhalar - 70 km away, where he had planned to pick up a rich man's son and politely ask for a ransom. The statement was made so casually as if he was to pick up bread from a baker. We did feel sorry for his intended victims, but were in no state to preach or offer advice and we set about to do our own business, which more than geology, was to thank God for this desert encounter that ended well!